Paddling with Mermaids

What a couple of days - both for eating and paddling! The Geezers paddled both the Crystal River and the Homosassa River today. Yesterday, we moved camp from St. Joseph's Peninsula to Homosassa, with a lunch stop in St. Marks. We'll catch you up on our discoveries.

Mike and Andy in the Riverside Cafe, St. Marks

After packing up yesterday, we met our friend Andy Lundberg in St. Marks, not too far from his home base in Tallahassee. The Riverside Cafe turned out some great fish and shrimp sandwiches, and we just had to sample the Key Lime pie. The cafe is somewhat open-air, with Boat-tailed Grackles and a Yellow-rumped Wablers flying in to look for leftovers among the tables. We gave Andy back the kayak we'd borrowed, and he also took the one we bought in Mississippi, so we could trim down to just two boats. Many thanks, Andy!

Which of these birds is alive?

After lunch, we moved on to the old village of Homosassa, and what turns out to be a very nice spot at Camp'n'Water, right on the Homosassa River. Today, we paddled on the Crystal River and found lots of Manatee's. These gentle giants (mistaken for mermaids in the olden days by sailors who were away from home far too long) will swim right up to your kayak, and raise their heads to take a look. We saw several cows with calves. One calf came up under Mike's kayak, looking for a place to nurse.

Pining for the 'ole home bar

In our search for Manatees, we paddled by the Ale House, a moniker stolen from Geezer Mike's favorite pub in Troy, NY. I think I saw a homesick tear in his eye for a moment there. That is until we remembered that ice jams are threatening to flood parts of Troy. Here is FL, we paddled in bright sun and temps in the 70's (we'll take it).

A big Manatee comes up for air

An ice cream cone and a quick Whalen gave us new energy, and not having enough paddling for the day, we set out on the Homosassa just before sunset. Ospreys, Cormorants and Night-Herons kept us company as we paddled a loop down the river and back through canals in the village.

Dinner recommendations came from the Old Curmudgeon, friend Bill Whalen. Even though he had to be in Orlando and could not join us, he steered us right. Only a few minutes away was the Freezer, also known as the Cedar Key Seafood Company. Their old freezer room is now a bar and seafood spot. Draft Beers were $2, the clam chowder was good and the boiled shrimp were fantastic. Reader can check it out at http://www.thefreezertikibar.com/

'Nite, all!

Free Margos, Sleeping on the Wet Spot, and missing Airport

Bet that got your attention, didn't it? Well its all true - so read on.

After posting last night's blog post at the laundramat, we took the ladies to their last dinner in sunny Florida (More on that later). We hit a Mexican place called "Peppers" that happened to be celebrating their anniversary, so they offered FREE Margaritas!!!! Not just your typical little, watered down concoction, but a full fledged margo by the pitcher! And the waiter kept them coming! The food was great (we think) and we topped it off with a couple of orders of fried Ice Cream that were large enough to feed 6 of us!

We needed the reinforcement because we returned to the campsite in a full fledged squall line with high winds, torrential downpours and frequent lightning & thunder. The camper held up OK to the punishment, but leaks were developing along some of the tent seams. The matrasses got a bit soaked and the camper rocked and rolled in the storm till well after midnight! This morning, we mopped up, packed up and brought the ladies on their next step of the adventure - to the airport at Panama City.

On the windy St. Joe's Beach after the storm

After an hour and 20 minute ride, the GPS led us directly to the airport - which was CLOSED!!!! Not closed because of weather or mechanical malfunctions but closed, period! Thank you Garmin! The first clue should have been the conspicious absence of cars in the parking lot or the lack of signs leading us in. We pulled up to the terminal building and were met by a 120 year old security guard who said the airport had been moved about 1/2 hour drive away! Damn good thing we were early. The only directions to the new airport were on a faded sign - we hastilly made our way to the new airport, got the ladies there on time for their flight, said our goodbyes and POOF! We were magically Geezers again!

What the...? Thanks Garmin and AAA map!

The Geezer magic continued when we made our way to Regans Pub and Oyster Bar for dinner (Raw $8/doz and baked oysters $9/doz, grilled shrimp $9/doz and a beer or four $2.25/pint) and get this - free internet access! GEEZER HEAVEN! (we had to stop in honor of Geezer Al's new daughter-in-law, the lovely Jill Regan).

It's a dive, but the oysters were mighty fine!

Beer $2.25 a pint, and free wireless.

Tomorrow we bid farewell to St. Joe's Pennsula and head to Homossa Springs for a couple of days before continuing on to the NW Everglades. The Geezers are back!

Time on our hands

The area of Florida we are in is located right on the border of the Eastern and Central time zones. Our cell phones keep changing depending where in the campground we are and what tower is the strongest! For an interesting look at what it's like to live here, read

Well, we Geezers are living the highlife! Been busy showing the ladies all the sights on our little slice of paradise on St. Joe's Pennsula! Monday Night we had a great dinner at a place called the Dockside with FRESH Apalachicola oysters, fresh tuna, fresh shrimp and chicken tenders for Kathy. Dessert was large servings of homemade Key Lime pie topped with a beautiful sunset over the marina.

Oysters at the Dockside

View from the restaurant

Tuesday started with walk on the boardwalk and beach, followed by a paddle into the teeth of 15-20 knot wind & waves. The upwind paddle took about 45 minutes till we stopped for a bite of lunch on the beach. The return trip was much quicker (about 10 minutes!). A little resting around the campsite followed by a simple homecooked dinner in the trailer flushed down with multiple Margo's and a sunset over the Gulf that was superb! Just before turning in for the night, we took a walk to the beach to see the stars, completely undisturbed by surrounding light pollution! Absolutely phenominal show.

Lunch stop along St. Joe's Peninsula

Today (Wednesday) is the ladies last day in the sunny south. While the weather has not been too warm, it has been a welcome change from the "in like a lion" March weather of upstate NY. A morning walk on the beach with a little shell collecting has become the closest thing to a routine we have developed (well, Margaritas in the afternoon is another routine) Today we were greeted with red flags flying on the beach warning of high winds and dangerous surf. As we exited the beach, a volunteer at the park warned about high winds coming about noon time, but so far - no problem. Tonight we will treat ladies to a Mexican dinner in town to celebrate their time with us. By this time tomorrow, the Geezers will be flying solo again. We will miss the Geezerettes (a little!)

Dinner with Friends and on To St. Joe's

Saturday was a not-so-great weather day, so we toured a couple of nature preserves, then went north to Lucedale, where Ken and Jen live. Their kind invitation to dinner was most welcome, as the walls of the Geezer trailer where starting to close in on us. The drive was eventful, with torrential rain and close lightning - no chance to count between flash and crash, they came at the same time. We felt the thunder along with hearing it!

Jennifer and Kenny - and the Christmas Tree

Dinner was great and the company better. Kenny even gave Mike and Al each a turn with his Red Rider Commemorative BB rifle. Tin cans in the back yard were the only casualties. A big thanks go to this great couple for making our time is Ole Miss very nice.

Sunday we wrapped up the camper and hit the road for Florida. Six hours or so later, we set up the rig at St. Joseph's Peninsula State Park. After a cold night, we hiked the shore and paddled on the bay. Cormorants, loons, buffleheads, shorebirds and pelicans kept us company - but no dolphins, yet.

Thursday March 3 and Friday March 5 - Sittin’ in the Geezer Trailer sippin’ a Margarita and fixin’ ta tell ya’ll what we bin doin’.  Sorry, being back in Mississippi has that effect on me!

What a great couple of days the Geezers and ladies have had.  The weather has been a bit iffy with high winds yesterday joined by bands of rain showers today

Our dear friend Kenny just can’t win!  His plans to play hooky with the Geezers on Thursday got changed with the announcement of his new boss, press release to write resulting in a raft of phone calls to return.  He did finally manage to break away, but the Geezers made sure the pressure stayed on him.  He had arranged for us to be able to paddle from the Mississippi Gulf Coast Community College’s Estuarine Education Center, a beautiful new facility that trains students to work in the outdoor recreation industry.  It was a windy day and we made the poor guy paddle against 15-20 mph winds, in heavy boat with a paddle reverse feathered – and he did it, despite our finest efforts!  We were rewarded with a glimpse of a bald eagle, many ospreys and lots of herons.  In an effort to further complicate Kenny’s life we lead him through a series of twisty and increasingly narrow passages through the bayou in a futile attempt to take a new route back to the dock.  He spent much of his time in the marsh grass earning him the nickname “WeedWacker” Flanagan! 

Back to campground for shower then we met Kenny at the Shed – BBQ joint that makes the Dinosaur look sterile and formal!  Good food, good beer and good friends – it just doesn’t get better than that!

Just before bed, Mike made a garbage run to the dumpster.  Let’s see, campground, midnight and garbage what should someone with Mike’s wildlife background expect?  Well, he forgot and got the bejesus scared out of him as two raccoons bolted from the dumpster as he opened the lid!  The medications seem to be working – no heart attack!

Friday – lazy morning – Off to check e-mail at coffee shop Delo’s Heavenly House of Coffee then to meet MGCCC Estuarine Education Center for a crack at their climbing wall.  Kathy went first, making it about 2/3 of the way up the wall before making a controlled fall to the matting.  Al went next, testing his ailing knee against the wall, making it just a little further up before succumbing to the laws of gravity.  Fat ole Mike, against his better judgment, decided to test the limits of the mechanical belay system and climb next.  He made it about 2 feet, peeled off and got mad!  Another try had much better results, and he managed to propel his bulk almost to the top of the wall before he did something that no experienced climber would do – he stopped and thought!  Since thinking is just as strenuous as climbing for the Geezer, he did the only thing he could do – fell!  The director of the center, Wayne Taylor, was a gracious host to the Geezers and we thank him and his staff for letting us play with their toys!

The excitement continued.  In keeping with the theme of Geezers Eat the South, we pulled into the Country Gentleman a little local restaurant in Gautier for a “light” lunch – you know, soup and salad – right!  The homemade Chicken Noodle soup had a unique lemony/acidic taste that proved that it didn’t come from Campbells, the Seafood Gumbo was rich in crawfish, shrimp and crab and a great spicy brown roux.  Both soups came in either cup or bowl size – the cup was about the size of a small child and you could take a bath in the bowl!  The salad ($3.95) came on a platter that you could serve your Thanksgiving turkey on!  So much for a light lunch!

The afternoon entertainment consisted of visiting the Mississippi Sand Hill Crane Refuge for a chance to see one of these elegant and beautiful and highly endangered creatures.  This bird, a distinct, non migratory sub-species of the Sand Hill Crane has been teetering on the brink of extinction due to habitat destruction.  At the time the refuge was established in the mid 1970’s, there were only 30 birds known to exist.  Through the efforts of the refuge, the population is currently at 112 individuals.  After a bit of driving around the area, we were indeed fortunate to spot 2 of the cranes near a fenceline outside of VanCleave

Tonight, we introduce the ladies to Rachel’s Widows Walk, a place the Geezers enjoyed a couple of times last year.  Sam, the owner has certainly maintained high standards over the past 12 months – he was not here, as he just got married yesterday. Congrats!


Off to bed to the pitter-patter (and ROAR!) of rain on the camper roof!

Up To Date (and up to no good)

OK, loyal followers, we got behind on our postings – that’s what happens when wimmin break up the Geezer’s routine (and also when you move from a campsite that has wireless internet!) But we’ll try to make it up to you by including the latest from the Big Easy as well as a peek at the beginnings of our stay in Mississippi.

Biegnets at Cafe Du Monde

 Monday, February 28th – Dawn broke to the sounds of bulldozers and pile drivers once again! The ladies first night in the Geezer camper was uneventful (we are old you know!) and we wandered into Nola for a great lunch at Crescent City Brewers, some foot-powered sightseeing in the French Quarter and Market District, and the obligatory stop at Café Dumond for beignets and a café’ au lait (though Geezer Mike, true to form, had "coffee- dammit just coffee". The brief rest put us in the mood for a little more sightseeing, this time by horse drawn carriage for an informative ride around the French Quarter. The horse refused to move past the Old Blacksmiths Shop, a pub noted for it’s Hurricanes, so in order to appease the stubborn horse and get on with the historical tour, we drank some. Drinking seems to be an accepted practice down here, so we had another round at a Dixieland club, another at a jazz club and another at a fine establishment that featured a rockin’ Cajun band. Dinner at Felix’s oyster house and another tour of the music clubs on Bourbon Street and we were done for the night! – a good time was had by all!

A carriage ride in the French Quarter

Tuesday, March 1st – We packed up the camper for the first time since snow country (where the Hell do we put all this stuff???) and said goodbye to New Orleans. Not being in much of a hurry, we took the slow route along highway 90 instead of the Interstate. On the way, we stopped at Bayou Savauge National Wildlife Refuge for a walk along their boardwalk nature trail. Of all the people to get successful, Kathy spotted the first snake of the trip. A good one, too - a cottonmouth! We continued on through Pass Christian, Biloxi and Ocean Springs into to Shepard State Park in Gautier, MS our home for the next 5-6 days. This is a familiar and sentimental landscape for Geezer Mike who spent nearly a month here in 2005 helping with recovery following Hurricane Katrina. Aside from lots of memories and a great experience, Mike also brought home a lasting friendship in the form of Ken & Jennifer Flanagan. They stopped by the Geezer camper for a Margarita, then we all went out for a fine Mexican meal and many, many laughs at San Marcos, a great little Mexican Restaurant in Gautier.

Getting our paddles wet in Davis Bayou

Wednesday, March 2, found us up at the crack of dawn – OK, well, 7:30 or so. We had a leisurely breakfast in the camper then packed up to go paddle. A wind had come up during the night so the crossing to Deer Island, though short, looked a little challenging. Our back-up plan was to go to Davis’s Bayou at the Gulf Islands National Seashore where we did a leisurely 3.5 mile paddle in the Bayou watching the ospreys soar and feed on the abundant sea life. A real nice way for the ladies to get their paddles wet for the first time this season. Mike and Kathy did a trip to the store and a little Katrina tour while Al and Char took a walk around the campground and prepped for cocktail hour. Margaritas followed by great dinner of grilled chicken, stir fried veggies, brown rice and tossed salad. The ladies played some Scrabble while the Geezers worked on the blog – all for you, dear follower!